UK Textile Body Urges Caution in Global Used Clothing Trade
The Textile Recycling Association (TRA) in the UK advocates for a cautious, evidence-based approach to regulating the global used textile trade. Speaking at a recent webinar, TRA chief executive Alan Wheeler cautioned that poorly targeted rules could disrupt existing reuse and recycling systems.
The webinar, titled Used Textiles in the Global Circular Economy: Research, Realities and the Basel Convention, featured experts from Europe, the Americas, Ghana, and Kenya. Discussions centered on the Basel Convention, which is evaluating new controls on the international movement of used textiles and textile waste.
According to the TRA, any regulatory changes must rely on robust evidence and clearly distinguish between reusable textiles and waste. Wheeler stressed the importance of understanding the scale and location of issues before implementing new controls. “There is a real danger of policy being driven by perception rather than evidence,” he noted.
The TRA expresses particular concern about the potential consequences of expanding Prior Informed Consent (PIC) requirements. Increased administration, costs, and delays could hinder legitimate reuse and recycling efforts, impacting not only exporters but also collection systems and businesses in destination markets.
This concern arises as European policies push for greater textile collection through separate collection mandates and Extended Producer Responsibility. However, stricter controls on international movements could counteract these efforts by limiting access to global markets for reuse and recycling.
The TRA contends that increasing textile collection alone does not ensure circularity. Access to viable markets for various textile fractions, including international ones, is critical for the economic sustainability of collection and sorting systems. Restricting these markets without providing alternatives risks destabilizing the entire system.
In England, textile waste exporters face new hurdles due to Environment Agency requirements. Those operating under Article 18 controls must now prove that receiving facilities in countries like India and Pakistan are legally equipped to handle textile waste in an environmentally sound manner. TRA members report significant practical challenges, as some facilities in key markets lack approval, and necessary documentation is unavailable in required formats.
While the aim is to ensure responsible waste management, these challenges show the need for a balanced approach that considers both environmental and economic factors in the global textile trade.
